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Post Info TOPIC: how many coats (brain pickin time )


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how many coats (brain pickin time )


ok guys just how many coats of flex coat or equivalent stuff do you apply.

i have seen eyes that look like they were barely coated and some that look like they were coated 8 or 10 times, big ol heavy coats.

now were not talking "show rods" were talking "go fishing" rods.

and is it 5 minuet or overnight drying stuff

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I like using very thin coats of Threadmaster Lite for my guides. For me, it usually takes 2-3 coats to fully cover the threads. If it's just a quick fix, you could definitely get away with just one thick coat. Personally, I don't like alot of extra epoxy on guides because of the unnecessary extra weight. I've also been using more Permagloss for guides lately. It doesn't give you the smooth look of epoxy, but it's very strong and light...



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Terry G. I Would Use 2 Lite coats. Make Sure The First Coat Soaks In Real Well. Let Dry Overnight. Then Finish Of With The Second Coat. Just My 2 Cents.

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Terry....
              I have always gone with one coat of epoxy...wether it was Flexcoat or Diamond II...never felt a need for two coats...
              Just my 02...




MaryLou~~

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I think i have used all the epoxies one time or anoter but i use two coats. If you use one coat its been my experience the the rod is prone to nicks and with one coat that will expose the thread to the elements. Thats sjust the way i do it.
Paul

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I start with one coat of Diamond II just enough to cover well. After that is close to setting up I will check it carefully and any areas that need more I will coat again. If you put finish on too thick you will end up with a football effect. That means it is shaped like a football.
Pat

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Well... this may seem crazy and if it is I'd appreciate it if the more experienced rod builders would chime in and let me know.

What I do: I use only FlexCoat high build epoxy. I use an angled pick from a set I picked up at Harbor Freight to apply epoxy in the tunnel the foot creates. Then I put the rod on the dryer and apply the high build to all the guide wraps. Right after that I take a heat gun and on the low setting heat each wrap until the epoxy is pretty much like water. For me this gives it the best penetration I can possibly get - it also absolutley removes any air bubbles that may be present. I don't get it "too" hot as it doesn't take much heat. Then if necessary I wick off as/if required. At this point the wraps look pretty much like they've be coated with a lite epoxy. Right after the heat application I come back and reapply with the high build with no heat. I apply enough to get the look/finish I want. Every step up to this point has been conducted with the rod mounted in the rack and turning. After I apply the second coat(so to speak) I let the dryer run approximately 10 mins. then shut it off and let it set for about another 10 minutes - with the guides in the up position. Then, if necessary, I wick off any epoxy in need of such wicking then turn the dryer back on and go about my merry way for a couple of hours - checking every so often to make sure all is well - and the rod is still in the dryer.

-- Edited by Doug Weissinger on Thursday 4th of February 2010 06:48:47 AM

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Doug Weissinger wrote:

Well... this may seem crazy and if it is I'd appreciate it if the more experienced rod builders would chime in and let me know.

What I do: I use only FlexCoat high build epoxy. I use an angled pick from a set I picked up at Harbor Freight to apply epoxy in the tunnel the foot creates. Then I put the rod on the dryer and apply the high build to all the guide wraps. Right after that I take a heat gun and on the low setting heat each wrap until the epoxy is pretty much like water. For me this gives it the best penetration I can possibly get - it also absolutley removes any air bubbles that may be present. I don't get it "too" hot as it doesn't take much heat. Then if necessary I wick off as/if required. At this point the wraps look pretty much like they've be coated with a lite epoxy. Right after the heat application I come back and reapply with the high build with no heat. I apply enough to get the look/finish I want. Every step up to this point has been conducted with the rod mounted in the rack and turning. After I apply the second coat(so to speak) I let the dryer run approximately 10 mins. then shut it off and let it set for about another 10 minutes - with the guides in the up position. Then, if necessary, I wick off any epoxy in need of such wicking then turn the dryer back on and go about my merry way for a couple of hours - checking every so often to make sure all is well - and the rod is still in the dryer.

-- Edited by Doug Weissinger on Thursday 4th of February 2010 06:48:47 AM




 Well... this may seem crazy and if it is I'd appreciate it if the more experienced rod builders would chime in and let me know.  
 
      More Experienced Rodbuilders ?????.......Paul Lindsey...Pat Helton ....and I are NOT wet behind the ears !!!...

      MaryLou~~



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MaryLouVandeRiet wrote:

Doug Weissinger wrote:

Well... this may seem crazy and if it is I'd appreciate it if the more experienced rod builders would chime in and let me know.

What I do: I use only FlexCoat high build epoxy. I use an angled pick from a set I picked up at Harbor Freight to apply epoxy in the tunnel the foot creates. Then I put the rod on the dryer and apply the high build to all the guide wraps. Right after that I take a heat gun and on the low setting heat each wrap until the epoxy is pretty much like water. For me this gives it the best penetration I can possibly get - it also absolutley removes any air bubbles that may be present. I don't get it "too" hot as it doesn't take much heat. Then if necessary I wick off as/if required. At this point the wraps look pretty much like they've be coated with a lite epoxy. Right after the heat application I come back and reapply with the high build with no heat. I apply enough to get the look/finish I want. Every step up to this point has been conducted with the rod mounted in the rack and turning. After I apply the second coat(so to speak) I let the dryer run approximately 10 mins. then shut it off and let it set for about another 10 minutes - with the guides in the up position. Then, if necessary, I wick off any epoxy in need of such wicking then turn the dryer back on and go about my merry way for a couple of hours - checking every so often to make sure all is well - and the rod is still in the dryer.

-- Edited by Doug Weissinger on Thursday 4th of February 2010 06:48:47 AM




 Well... this may seem crazy and if it is I'd appreciate it if the more experienced rod builders would chime in and let me know.  
 
      More Experienced Rodbuilders ?????.......Paul Lindsey...Pat Helton ....and I are NOT wet behind the ears !!!...

      MaryLou~~



MaryLou.... Just to clear things up in case there is/was a misunderstanding... I was referencing y'all when I said that... And if there is something inherently wrong with my method that could cause me problems later - Please - chime in.

 



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I use Flex Coat Lite and apply 2 to 3 (thin) coats

and Doug I got what you were meaning. Mary Lou.... he wasn't trying to be rude, he was just asking for someone that is more experienced then himself to let him know if he was doing something wrong.

-- Edited by Trey Shaw on Thursday 4th of February 2010 09:04:27 AM

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Doug Weissinger wrote:

MaryLouVandeRiet wrote:

 

Doug Weissinger wrote:

Well... this may seem crazy and if it is I'd appreciate it if the more experienced rod builders would chime in and let me know.

What I do: I use only FlexCoat high build epoxy. I use an angled pick from a set I picked up at Harbor Freight to apply epoxy in the tunnel the foot creates. Then I put the rod on the dryer and apply the high build to all the guide wraps. Right after that I take a heat gun and on the low setting heat each wrap until the epoxy is pretty much like water. For me this gives it the best penetration I can possibly get - it also absolutley removes any air bubbles that may be present. I don't get it "too" hot as it doesn't take much heat. Then if necessary I wick off as/if required. At this point the wraps look pretty much like they've be coated with a lite epoxy. Right after the heat application I come back and reapply with the high build with no heat. I apply enough to get the look/finish I want. Every step up to this point has been conducted with the rod mounted in the rack and turning. After I apply the second coat(so to speak) I let the dryer run approximately 10 mins. then shut it off and let it set for about another 10 minutes - with the guides in the up position. Then, if necessary, I wick off any epoxy in need of such wicking then turn the dryer back on and go about my merry way for a couple of hours - checking every so often to make sure all is well - and the rod is still in the dryer.

-- Edited by Doug Weissinger on Thursday 4th of February 2010 06:48:47 AM




 Well... this may seem crazy and if it is I'd appreciate it if the more experienced rod builders would chime in and let me know.  
 
      More Experienced Rodbuilders ?????.......Paul Lindsey...Pat Helton ....and I are NOT wet behind the ears !!!...

      MaryLou~~



MaryLou.... Just to clear things up in case there is/was a misunderstanding... I was referencing y'all when I said that... And if there is something inherently wrong with my method that could cause me problems later - Please - chime in.

 



         Doug.....
                      There is nothing wrong with your method..we as rodbuilders have our own way of doing things..ask 10 rodbuilders and you will get ten different ways of doing one thing .....
                      Do what ever works for you...that is the way I learned...
                      And...I apologize for any misunderstanding on my part !!

MaryLou~~

 



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Well said Mary Lou

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Paul Lindsey wrote:

Well said Mary Lou



          Thank You Paul....

 

         MaryLou~~

 



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